Garden Detective

Happy spring, everybody! I always feel like a Peanut on the vernal equinox -- the first day of spring -- when the day and night are equally long. In fact, I'm so excited, I'm posting this 10 hours early. From tomorrow at 1:48 a.m. until the first day of summer -- June 21 -- the days will grow longer and longer.

I feel so blah from November through the winter. I find the darkness and the cold mentally and physically zapping. But thoughts of tulips and tomato plants and leaving the house without a jacket turn me into a blubbering idiot come March 20. At the risk of sending you all into diabetic shock with my uncharacteristic sappiness, I'm so happy it's spring I could dance like Snoopy!

When I was a kid, we marked the day by trying to stand eggs on their ends. I can't remember whether it worked, but I'm going to try tomorrow. I'll report back -- with photos if I'm successful.

If you haven't already, start seeds of annuals indoors, and plant cool-season crops like lettuce and spinich outdoors.

It's prime time to seed your lawn, too. if yours looks anything like mine -- trashed by a dog or otherwise sabotaged -- seed once a week and water twice a day until it fills in. But don't fertilize until Memorial Day.

Tomorrow is the Ides of March. All that means, really, is that it's the 15th of the month. In the ancient Roman calendar, the 15th of March, May, July and October were referred to as the ides, as were the 13th of the other months. Each ide indicated the halfway point of the lunar month in question, as idus means "divide" in Latin.

Superstition about the full moon was alive and well back in those days, probably more so than today, and so the ides were perceived as unlucky. The day truly did prove unlucky for one Julius Ceasar in the year 44 BC, when he was assassinated by a group of jealous senators that most famously included the trusted Brutus.

In the play named for the dictator, William Shakespaere wrote that Vestricius Spurinna, as astrologer, had warned Caesar of the impending doom, "Beware the ides of March." Whether it really happened that way is a matter of speculation.

For me, the ides of March is a happy day. It's the day before my father's birthday, two days before I indulge in soda bread, corned beef and cabbage, and just a week before spring officially begins. Crocuses are in full swing, and I can begin cleaning up the garden to prepare for the forthcoming onslaught of perennials.

Here's a short list of March Gardening Chores:

• Protect existing deciduous trees from insects by treating with horticultural oil after the danger of frost has passed. Don't wait too long, though. This should be done before buds open.

• Start seeds indoors in a soil-less growing medium.

• Prune trees and shrubs.

• Apply a 5-10-5 fertilizer to spring-flowering bulbs as soon as they poke out of the ground.

• Cut back ornamental grasses and last year's perennials, if you haven't already.

• Thin brambles (raspberries, blackberries, etc.)

• Planning on adding new trees or shrubs to your landscape? Now's the time.

• Need to rearrange? Move shrubs now, while they're still dormant.

With the temperature hovering around 50 degrees today, I was hoping it would hold up all weekend so I could get out into the garden and prune my shrubs, cut down last year's perennials, ornamental grasses and butterfly bush, and clean out the debris that always magically appears in my beds despite having been cleaned out in late fall. Where did all those leaves come from? They were all raked and bagged when the trees were bare. It happens every year, and I'll never understand it.

Unfortunately, thunderstorms predicted for tomorrow are putting a kink in my plans. Sunday should be clear, but I have 2 problems with Sunday: For one, it'll be about 10 degrees cooler than tomorrow. I was looking forward to actually enjoying toiling in the garden. If it's in the low 40s and I'm cold, I'll be miserable, so I won't do it.

Secondly, I'll be manning the soil testing counter at the Hicks Flower and Garden Show in Westbury until 1 p.m. Sunday. Wet soil can't be tested, so if you plan on coming in, please go outside and dig up your sample now. Be sure to dig down at least 4 inches for an accurate reading.

When I get home, for all my good intentions, I'm more likely to watch "The Crow" or "V for Vendetta," which just came in from Netflix, with my daughter Justine than I am to start digging around on a gray late winter afternoon. I'm dedicated, but I do need some downtime, even if it's just a couple hours a week spent lazying on the couch.

Next week will be better. Once the clocks are adjusted Sunday morning (actually, I find Saturday night preferable) I'll come home from work and the blaring sunlight will make me feel as if I have the whole day ahead of me. Though we're setting the clocks ahead, essentially losing an hour, my glass is half full: I gain an extra hour between 5:30 and 6:30 p.m.

When I get home from work, I run out there and water, pull weeds, move plants around and walk across the street to see how things look from there. After about an hour or so, I feed the masses and bond with the family.

How will you spend your extra hour of daylight?

I just spied someone cross country skiing up my block, quite a weird sight in the 'burbs. And though my kids are stranded at their grandparents' house in Florida, the weather is good news for some of my other babies.

Snow is an excellent insulator for dormant perennials, protecting roots, crown buds and bulbs. It also keeps the soil temperature even, which prevents heaving, while keeping the soil moist and ready for spring growth. And the glistening flakes caught on my dried-out ornamental grasses, trees and bare shrubs -- especially the redtwig dogwoods -- makes the garden look like a winter wonderland.

On the down side, we are expecting quite a bit of the white stuff, and that could spell trouble, especially for trees. Be sure to get out there and (gently) brush off snow from the branches of evergreens. (A broom is ideal for this purpose.) Otherwise, the weight of the snow will break them, or at the very least leave them buckled and misshapen. The sorry-looking hunch-backed specimens above are the Leland cypress in my backyard.

Trees like pines and spruces are quite susceptible to damage, and broadleaf evergreens are even more vulnerable. Arborvitaes, which are commonplace on Long Island, don't tolerate snow well at all. Their branches separate and often never recover. If the snow is left on the branches and allowed to freeze icy hard, well, that's even worse.

I know it's cold out there, and you're probably busy shoveling. The last thing you want to do is spend time brushing off your trees. But trust me, it's better than having to replace them in the spring.

I went outside yesterday and walked around the garden, looking for signs of heaving and signs of squirrels. Remarkably, I found neither.

Last year at this time, many of my bulbs had been pillaged by squirrels. They left little messy holes all over the border. Surely, these were the lazy squirrels -- the ones that didn't collect acorns before the winter. Needless to say, my spring garden was nothing to write home about last year.

This year, I tried an all-natural product called Squirrel Stopper, about which I had heard good things. It had a nice, mentholated scent and promised to keep the critters away. Somewhat skeptical, but ever hopeful, I diligently applied it to each tuber and bulb and in each hole -- and over the covered holes for good measure. And so far, so good. But there's another critter that's causing somewhat of a ruckus today.

The groundhog in our neck of the woods is a cute little critter named Punxsutawney Phil. He's been around all my life, all of my mother's life and probably longer than your grandma. Today marked the 117th time the old guy has been popping out to look for his shadow.

Every February 2nd, the little rodent tells us how long it will be before we can get out in the garden and do some serious planting. Legend has it that if he sees it and is scared back into his hole, we'll have to wait 6 more weeks for spring. If he hangs out, spring is on the way. No matter that he's often wrong. And no matter that chances are he'll get freaked out by the tens of thousands of onlookers and TV camers and run and hide regardless of his weather prediction. I know I would.

And while he doesn't bother me any, certainly not in my garden, I know a lot of gardeners have a grudge against him, having suffered experiences similar to my squirrel woes in their vegetable patches.

Well, this year, new hope will spring forth from the festivities in Phil's hometown of Punxsutawney, Pa. Tens of thousands of people descended upon the place for a little midwinter revelry and celebration while awaiting Phil's prediction. And Phil has spoken: There will be 6 more weeks of 40 degree weather.

The day's events in Punxsutawney, like everything else in our wonderfully capitalistic society, are sponsored by various companies. This year, “Groundhog Stopper”, an OMRI certified, fully organic groundhog repellent made by Messina Wildlife, the same company that produces my Squirrel Stopper, is among them.

Maybe Phil was chased away by all those product samples.

• Begin to harden off vegetable and flower seedlings the third week of April. They'll be ready for transplanting in the garden in a week or two. How to harden off seedlings

• Transplant cool-season vegetable seedlings, like lettuce, broccoli and cabbage in the second half of the month. Generally, the last frost date on Long Island falls around April 15 (Tax Day,) but it's probably wise to wait a bit longer. (Be sure to harden off seedlings before planting outside.)

• Clean up garden beds if you haven't done so already. Rake out leaves and cut back last year's perennials to make way for new growth. Start a compost pile with the debris.

• Sow hardy annual seeds outdoors.
  
  
• Prune established roses and plant new ones.

• Plant herbaceous perennials at the end of the month.

• Join the Garden Detective Long Island Seed Exchange!

It's the home stretch! With any luck, the month will go out like a proverbial lamb and we'll come out of hibernation, seedlings in tow.

Ever wonder where the expression "In like a lion, out like a lamb" came from? Check out this cartoon from Jack the Stargazer. (To view, click the photo at right, then click again to enlarge.)

To get ready for the new season, be sure to get your March chores done.

• Got extra seeds? Want to try some new ones? Join the seed exchange. Be sure to include your email address in your listing. I've noticed that some of you have forgotten to do so and therefore cannot be contacted by interested parties. Click here to get started: Long Island Seed Exchange

• Cut back dead foliage from spent perennials.

• If you haven't done so already, start flower and vegetable seeds indoors. Here's how:

  1. If you haven't saved cell packs from last year's plants, you can purchase inexpensive ones at your local nursery. Alternately, you can start your seeds in clean yogurt containers or even in egg cartons. Fill the container with soil-less seed starting mix (never use garden soil, as it's too dense and can contain organisms that could lead to disease) and sow 3 or 4 seeds per cell. Water thoroughly (taking care not to wash away the seeds) and cover tightly with plastic wrap.

  2. Set in a warm, cozy spot, out of direct sunlight. The top of your refrigerator is ideal. Check moisture levels periodically and water as necessary. Keep an eye out for "damping off," an airborne fungal disease that thrives when seed trays are kept in cool, damp, dark locations. You'll recognize it by a characteristic white mold layer on the soil's surface. If this happens, scrape it off and allow 'soil' to dry completely between waterings. Some people swear by their home remedies to prevent the scourge. I haven't tried any of these personally, but that doesn't mean they don't work. Here are some of the most popular:
            Cinnamon powder has fungicidal properties. Sprinkle some on your seed trays.
            Mist seedlings and mediums with cool Chamomile tea.
            Combine 1 minced clove of garlic with 2 cups of water. Cover and allow it to steep for 24 hours. Strain and mist over seedlings.

  3. When seedlings pop up, remove the plastic wrap and place containers in a bright, sunny location or under fluorescent lamps, where they'll be exposed to a good 14 hours of light daily.

  4. After the last frost -- usually around tax day -- "harden off" your plants by placing them outdoors for increasingly longer periods. Pick a shady spot that's protected from the wind and start off with just a half hour the first day. Over the next 10 days or so, work up to about 8 hours of outdoor time per day. Be sure to continue watering throughout the hardening process. Your plants will be ready for transplanting in the garden after hardening as long as nighttime temperatures are consistently above 50 degrees.

• Planning on adding new trees or shrubs to your landscape? Now's the time. They'll love the forthcoming April showers. Protect existing deciduous trees from insects by treating with horticultural oil after the danger of frost has passed. Don't wait too long, though. This should be done before buds open. Need to rearrange? Move shrubs now, while they're still dormant.

• Apply a complete 5-10-5 fertilizer to spring-flowering bulbs as soon as they poke out of the ground.

• Finally, clean up garden beds near the end of the month. Even though you raked autumn leaves in November, chances are some magically reappeared in your garden over the winter. Don't know why this happens, but it always seems to.

Place catalog orders as soon as possible, as the most desirable seeds and plants will sell out quickly. By doing so, you'll also get to take advantage of early-bird offers, like free shipping, bonus gifts and discounts that won't be offered later in the season.

Inspect flower beds for heaving -- bulbs and plant matter that lift out of the ground due to the thaw-freeze cycles. Gently step on the bulbs to push them back into the ground and tamp the soil with your foot. It only takes a minute and can save your bulbs. A nice layer of mulch -- or better yet, compost -- will keep soil temperatures even and reduce further heaving.

Inspect tree wrappings to ensure protection from hungry rodents and other critters.

When the mercury rises to 40 degrees, re-apply anti-desiccant to broadleaf evergreens and rose canes.

Check on stored tubers and bulbs, and mist with water if they appear to be drying out.

Dust off seed-starting supplies and get to work. On Long Island, Income Tax filing day (April 15) coincides with the average last frost day. (I wonder what that means.) Many seeds should be started 12 weeks before the last frost is expected; others a mere 2 to 4. Peppers, eggplant and lettuce should be started indoors 8 - 12 weeks before the last frost (around the beginning to the middle of February); tomatoes, cucumbers and Swiss chard, 6 to 8 weeks (mid-February until the beginning of March); cabbage and broccoli, 4 to 6 weeks (early to mid March); squash, melon and pumpkins, 2 to 4 weeks (around St. Patrick's Day or a little later.) Check seed packets or catalogs for more recommended start times.

If you use salt to keep your walkways free of ice, don't dump shoveled snow on your lawn or on garden beds. De-icers made from calcium chloride are safer to use than sodium chloride-based ones. For more information on salt damage, visit the Cornell Cooperative Extension's Lawn Care Library.

Avoid walking on frozen lawns. Frosted plants are extremely vulnerable to damage.

Today's news confirms what we've all been suspecting: 2007 just might be the world's hottest year on record. Climate scientists in Great Britain are predicting that high levels of greenhouse gasses coupled with a resurgent El Nino could spell disaster this year.

Will Pacific storms get out of control? Will Southeast Asia sweat out the winter? Will Australia have a drought this summer? I don't know about any of that. But I do know that my irises are sprouting. They're showing 8-inch tall stems and leaves. And I'm not alone. Everywhere I turn, plants are just downright confused by the mild weather.

Cherry trees at the Brooklyn Botanic Gardens are in full bloom, and reader Dolores Gulotta of New Hyde Park reports her irises are developing buds.

Since my plants haven't developed buds, they have a fighting chance of putting on a nice show in the spring, but Gulotta's probably won't. Fred Soviero, director of the Hofstra University Arboretum, says they're spending all their blooming energy now. "I'd think they'd be exhaused and not bloom again next year," he says. "If they do, tell Ms. Gulotta I want some!"

I know many of you are busy lighting Menorahs, wrapping presents and setting up Nativity scenes. But when all the egg nog is gone, and you've awakened from your long winter's nap, your plants will still need you. Here are a few things to look out for in January:

Pennsylvania Department of Conservation and Natural Resources Photo / Forestry Images.com

Houseplants need special winter care, too. The days are shorter, so even if you perch them near your sunniest window, potted plants won't get the same sunlight that was available over the summer. Be sure to rotate pots daily.

Heat from radiators and forced air systems can dry indoor air terribly. Just as we suffer more chapped lips and hands over the winter, our houseplants show symptoms as well. Run a humidifier for both your sakes.

Look at your plants. Are their leaves drooping? Turning yellow? Getting brown and crackly? Water requirements change over the winter, even for indoor plants. With few exceptions, at this time of year, most houseplants should be watered thoroughly and then not again until the soil is completely dry. And don't let leaves get dusty. Dust forms a barrier that slows the absorption of sunlight.

I disagree with the widely disseminated advice that flowering plants such as poinsettias should be kept in a cool, unheated room to prolong their bloom time. Sure, they might bloom longer, BUT WHO'S GOING TO SEE THEM? I say keep them in your main living area -- albeit away from direct heat -- and enjoy them while you can.

By now, I'm sure you've noticed the appearance of garden catalogs in your mailbox. Use this 'down time' to dogear pages and plan next year's beds. If nothing else, it helps the dreariness of winter from seeming endless.

Don't you hate it when you bring home a Christmas tree, and by the time the holiday rolls around there are more needles on the floor than on the branches?

Here are a few steps you can take to protect your tree from the grinch:

Just a reminder before I go. Now that the leaves are on the ground, it's the right time to prune non-flowering deciduous trees. You can do so from now through the winter, when trees are dormant. Not only is it better for the tree, but it's easier because you can better see its structure when its branches are bare. Without leaves, it's easier to spot dead or broken branches that need to be removed. If you leave them on, they might rip off when those winter winds start whipping.

Deciding what and where to prune involves an understanding of basic tree biology, sharp tools, and an artful eye. The International Society of Arboriculture (ISA) emphasizes a few simple principles to understand before you prune:

Prune with a purpose, Remove dead or diseased wood, provide clearance, or improve structure Use proper technique- Improper cuts can cause long-term damage.

Make small cuts. Small cuts cause less damage to the tree than large ones.

Make cuts just outside the branch collar. This allows for faster wound healing.

Do not leave stubs.

Only use sharp and clean tools.

"Proper pruning is an important part of tree health maintenance," according to Jim Skiera, Executive Director of the ISA. "Every tree is different. Pruning at the wrong time, pruning incorrectly, or pruning too much may create more problems than not pruning at all." When in doubt it is best to hire a professional arborist to do the pruning for you.

Pruning of large trees can be dangerous and should be done by a professional.

For more tips on how to prune trees or to find a local Certified Arborist, visit the ISA's Trees Are Good website.

I'm going to Seattle for Thanksgiving -- not returning until early December, so I won't be filing any blog entries until I return. Here are some things to do while I'm gone.

It's still autumn, and if you haven't already, there are a few chores that need to be done to winterize your garden. The Horticultural Society of New York, a 106 year-old, non-profit organization, recommends these maintenence jobs be done before winter arrives:

1. Discard All Weeds -- Especially Ones With Set Seeds

Be careful not to scatter seeds around the garden in the process of removal. Make sure to dig or pull weeds out by the roots to prevent more from coming back next spring.

2. Let the Plants Tell You When to Prune

Foliage of perennial plants will flop over at different times throughout the fall, indicating it is time to cut them back. Cut these plants within three inches of the ground. Do not prune trees or shrubs too late into the fall, because it can encourage new growth, which will not be strong enough for the cold weather. Save major pruning jobs for January or February when you can see the true form of a tree or shrub.

3. Guard Your Garden from Unwanted Diseases

Remove any old plant material from the garden to prevent diseases and unwanted insects from spending the winter. Dormant fungal spores and other nasty plant diseases can be found in decaying plant material, making clean-up one of the most important aspects of end-of-the-season gardening.

4. Let It Freeze Before You Mulch

Mulch is a great insulator for in-ground plants during the winter. Plants will begin to go dormant when the ground first freezes, and spreading mulch too early can lead to a rise in soil temperatures that can damage the plant. Wait until the ground is truly frozen before spreading mulch (a depth of 3” is recommended.)

Do you have a planting dilemma? Upload a picture and get community input. Or, if you've created a horticultural masterpiece, show it off. Borrow ideas and share your own via snapshots of your gardens. Show us what worked and what didn't. View submissions and upload your shots in the Virtual Garden Club.

As the growing season winds down, there are some last-minute chores that need to be done to ensure a healthy -- and easier -- spring garden:

Plant bulbs. You won't have the instant gratification of seeing your garden perk up immediately, but after a long, mostly colorless winter, you'll be happy you made the effort. Snowdrops and winter aconites will be the first to reward you, in early March, and they'll be closely followed by crocuses and chionodoxas, and then daffodils, hyacinths and tulips. The beginning of November is ideal bulb-planting time here in zone 7a, but you can continue to do so until the ground freezes. See the Spring Bulbs 101 entry for details.

Mulch garden beds, but not until later in the month when plants are dormant, to prevent damage from freezing cycles. Use no more than 3 inches of mulch -- over-mulching holds in too much moisture and will lead to rot.

Vegetables After harvesting the last of your garden's offerings, clear out the beds and till the soil.

Roses Clear fallen leaves out of the area and protect rose bushes by mounding soil up around the bases of canes. If you experienced black spot or other leaf diseases this year, it's especially important to remove any plague-carrying debris from the bed. Secure canes with twine to protect them from wind damage. Click here for expert advice on winterizing roses.

Gear Remove caked-on soil from tools and then rinse clean with a shot of the hose. Dip each in a bleach and water solution, or dry first and then spray with a disinfectant spray such as Lysol. When dry, treat with WD-40 or rub with an oiled rag to prevent rust. Store in a dry place, such as a garage, crawl space or garden shed.

Trees. Wrap the trunks of recently planted young trees with wire mesh or plastic wrap to protect them from hungry rodents over the winter.

Leave spent perennials in the garden to provide interest during the winter months. Remember, one man's dead plants are another's dried flowers. Seed heads and dry stems keep the garden from looking barren during the off months and feed birds that were too lazy to take the journey south, helping them make it through the harsh season.

Cut the grass until it goes to sleep. Then give it a nice dose of fertilizer (around Thanksgiving) and set the alarm for spring.

Stack the firewood, batten down the hatches and rest. You'll be digging and hauling and planting again before you know it.

Stephen Scanniello (Gotta love the dirty knees!) (Photo by Len Gelstein)

The following advice comes directly from the master, Stephen Scanniello, an internationally renowned rosarian, curator of the Brooklyn Botanic Garden's Cranford Rose Garden and author of "A Year of Roses," which I reviewed earlier this year. Mr. Scanniello was kind enough to share his expertise here on the Garden Detective Blog with these pointers:

It's still a good time to plant. In fact, it's the best time to plant roses. This includes moving an older bush to a new spot. To do so, prune back enough so that you can handle the shrub, prepare the new area with lots of compost and well-drained soil, and water thoroughly.

If you ordered from Canada, and the bare-root roses haven't arrived yet, dig the holes and mulch the holes to keep them from freezing. You may not get the roses until December.

If you ordered roses from root nurseries, these may be small. If so, plant in a pot and keep in a sheltered area till spring (this applies to roses that arrive in "sleeves," like those from Vintage Gardens of California.

Underplant roses with spring-flowering bulbs. Favorites, in bloom cycle from early to late, include:

• Chionodoxa (View image) and other small early blooming bulbs
  
  
• Small muscari (ambrosicacum) (View image)
  
  
• Fritillaria -- the huge crown imperial. (View image) Keeps rodents away (To find out why, click here.)
  
  
• Species tulips, like Turkestanica and Clusiana (Cynthia, Lady Jane among my favorites of this species)
  
  
• Any later blooming tulips. Plan on creating a bloom cycle that lasts until May (my favorite late one is 'Blushing Beauty')

• Daffs: All types, from earliest (February Gold) to late (Thalia and Hawera; especially fond of the fragrant Poeticus
  
  
• Camassia - all types

• Allium (View image)- all types, but especially schuberti

• Lilies (View image) - brings bulb color into the garden as late as August.

Plant small flowered pansies (violas) (View image) under old shrub roses or others that won't get mounded later in the winter, I prefer the Sorbet series.

Top dress all beds with rotted manure, not touching the roses, but a nice layer.

Tie all loose canes of climbers and ramblers.

Only prune back hybrid teas if you feel the look is ugly. Best to leave everything the way it is.

(All plant photos courtesy of Cornell Cooperative Extension)

To view photos from Mr. Scanniello's private gardens, visit the Virtual Gardening Club.