Garden Detective

Oh-oh. Yet another it's-too-good-to-be-true green dilemma crossed my desk today. (Read my previous post, Going green isn't black and white for background info.)

With the big push -- and looming legal deadline -- for everyone to start using those spiral "eco-friendly" CFL bulbs, one would think it's pretty safe to assume they're a no-brainer when it comes to the environment. They save a ton of energy and last way longer than standard incandescents. Right?

Not so fast, Kemo Sabe. Those CFLs contain mercury. The same mercury that was used for cavity fillings on people of a certain age, and then blamed for health problems later on. The same mercury that filled glass thermometers that heaven forbid you should bite down on by mistake. And did you ever break one of those things? The mercury separated into little balls and scattered all over the place, forcing you to hold your breath while you tried to pick them up without actually letting them touch your skin.

Aren't light bulbs a lot more delicate than thermometers? In an era when we're trying to phase out the toxic substances, what is it doing in light bulbs?

For the full story -- including instructions for the proper disposal of CFL bulbs, check out New Bulbs Have One Hitch.

According to holidayinsights.com, which apparently puts bizarre holidays on the calendar, the second week in May is officially Wildflower Week. Who knew?

To compensate for the fact that this holiday has eluded me all these years, I'd like to make it up to wildflowers everywhere by giving them a day in the spotlight.

William J. Hamilton, Jr., who was a gardener for 70 of his 82 years, consultant to Cornell Plantations for 30 years, and an emeritis professor of zoology at Cornell University, grew more than 100 different wildflowers in his 3 1/2-acre Ithaca garden. Who better to recommend native northeastern wildflowers to the Cornell Cooperative Extension in New York?

Here's his list, as published by the CCE-Sullolk:

Large White Trillium (Trillium grandiflorum). Waxy, pure white, whorled three-petaled flowers. Bloom period May-June. Petals echoed in the graceful, whorled, trio of low-growing leaves. Neutral to moderately acid soil (pH 5-7); moist or semi-dry. Partial shade or filtered sunlight. Does well on slopes; also can be cultivated on flat land. Prefers canopy of deciduous trees; does less well under evergreens. Takes 4-5 years to bloom from seed. Multiplies readily. (Ohio Dept. of Natural Resources photo)

Foamflower (Tiarella cordifolia). Foam-like spikes of miniature white flowers on stalks up to 9 inches high. Blooms April-June. Plants 6-12 inches. Neutral to moderately acid soil (ph 5-7); moist. Shade. Does less well under evergreens. Light oakleaf groundcover desirable. (US Forest Service photo)

Jack-in-the-Pulpit (Arisaema triphyllum). Stately brown and green-hooded flowers at base of 15- to 20-inch plant. Blooms April-June. Bears scarlet berries in August. Moderately acid soil; moist. Partial shade. Spring Beauty (Claytonia virginica). Delicate, starlike white or pink petals with rose-colored veins on 4- to 6-inch fragile stalks. Blooms April-May. Plants trail on forest floor. Neutral to slightly acid soil; moist. Filtered sunlight. (Photo courtesy Robert H. Mohlenbrock @ USDA-NRCS PLANTS Database / USDA NRCS. 1995. Northeast wetland flora: Field office guide to plant species. Northeast National Technical Center, Chester.)

Wild Ginger (Asarum canadense). Flowers hidden by leaves, maroon with a flush of soft gray green; resemble tiny stone jugs. Plants 4-6 inches. Makes good groundcover because of attractive, long-lasting foliage. Neutral to slightly acid soil; moist. Shade. (Photo courtesy Jennifer Anderson @ USDA-NRCS PLANTS Database)

White Baneberry (Actaea pachypoda). White flowers in tight oblong clusters. Blooms April-early June. Plants 1-2 feet. Waxy white fruits with black eye, borne on red stalks. Neutral to moderately acid soil; moist. Shade or filtered sunlight. (Photo by Jennifer Anderson @ USDA-NRCS PLANTS Database)

Black Cohosh; Bugbane; Fairy Candles (Cimicifuga racemosa). Tall candles of tiny white feathery flowers. Blooms June-Sept. Bold, showy plant 3-8 feet high. Neutral to moderately acid soil; moist to somewhat dry. Partial shade or full sun. (North Dakota State University Cass county Extension photo)

Rue Anemone (Anemonella thalictroides). Fragile flowers in shades of pink and white. Blooms March-May. Plants 4-6 inches. Lacy whorl of small, three-lobed leaves. Neutral to slightly acid soil; moist. Filtered sunlight. (Photo by Jennifer Anderson @ USDA-NRCS PLANTS Database)

Virginia Bluebells; Virginia Cowslips (Mertensia virginica). Nodding clusters of pink buds turn into porcelain blue flowers. Blooms March-May. Plants 1-2 feet. Leaves oval, strongly veined. Nearly neutral soil (pH 6-7); moist. Partial shade. (Photo by Robert H. Mohlenbrock @ USDA-NRCS PLANTS Database / USDA NRCS. 1995. Northeast wetland flora: Field office guide to plant species. Northeast National Technical Center, Chester.)

Herb-Robert (Geranium robertanium). Tiny trumpet-shaped, rose-colored flowers, occasionally white. Blooms all summer. Plants 6-18 inches. Strongly scented, fernlike foliage that turns bronze in fall and is retained throughout winter. Neutral or slightly acid soil; moist or dry. Full or partial shade. (Washington State Noxious Weed Control Board photo)

Hungry for more? Order Common Wildflowers of New York State from the Cornell Cooperative Extension of Suffolk County. (631-727-7850)

It might also be noteworthy to mention that May 1 was Save the Rhino Day. That one just flew under my radar. And in addition to being Bird Day, May 4 is also National Candied Orange Peel Day. But, personally, I'm sorry I didn't know sooner that today was No Socks Day. I would have planned my outfit accordingly.

There's always tomorrow -- Lost Sock Memorial Day.

Lilacs are in full bloom today so what better plant to lauch the Plant of the Week series? (These full-size beauties were photographed along the Old Westbury Gardens lilac walk.)

We're coming up on prime planting season, and my inbox is flooded with requests for plant suggestions and questions about the needs of specific plants. So I've decided to launch the Plant of the Week series, starting today.

Each week, I'll pick something I like -- or a plant you've been asking about -- and profile it here. I'll show you pictures and include care instructions, sunlight requirements and any other pertinent information.

Got a favorite plant, or need some information? Drop me a line and I'll try to cover it.

Lilacs thrive in soil with a neutral or slightly alkaline pH, so your first course of action should be to test your soil with a simple pH test kit, which you'll find at your local garden center. You also can bring a soil sample to the Cornell Cooperative Extension office (visit cce.cornell.edu for details). If your soil is very acidic, add lime before planting.

Select a spot that will supply a minimum of six hours of full sunlight daily, away from downspouts and anywhere else where water might pool. Lilacs do not like "wet feet."

Space them according to their mature size to allow for adequate air circulation and avoid powdery mildew disease, to which they're susceptible. And don't pack them in tightly with perennials; they don't like the competition.

Early spring is the best time to plant lilacs, so you should do so as soon as possible. Dig a hole two to three times the size of the container, mix in some compost and plant at the same level they were at in the pot. Do not fertilize, but water thoroughly after planting, and see to it that they get 1 to 1 1/2 inches of water a week during the first season. Next year, you can give them a shot of 5-10-5 fertilizer in the early spring.

Click thumbnail below to get details about Syringa patula '‘Miss Kim', Syringa x ‘Tinkerbelle' and Syringa microphylla ‘Superba':

Profiles: Favorite dwarf lilacs

Will Wischhusen, far right, and the Botanical Training Group in Great Neck

I spent the morning visiting with the good folks in the Botanical Training Program at North Shore University Hospital's Vocational Training Center. The group, led by Will Wischhusen, comprises aspiring gardeners preparing for careers in the horticulture world.

We talked about soil pH, explored types of liming materials, discussed macronutrients and then played in the dirt, literally.

The group's eight members took turns testing two soil samples -- one from a neglected area in my backyard, the other from directly outside the building on Northern Boulevard in Great Neck. Both were surprisingly nonacidic, with readings of approximately 7.0 to 7.2.

That's some sweet soil, and unless you're planting ericaceous plants like blueberries, azaleas or rhododendrons, it's absolutely perfect. But what if your soil is more acidic, as much of Long Island soil is?

Your first course of action when planting a new area should be to get a soil test. The Cornell Cooperative Extension has walk-in counters located in Eisenhower Park in Nassau and in Riverhead in Suffolk. They'll test your sample for $5. You also can buy a test kit at most nurseries. The advantage to using the extension's service, though, is that it comes with recommendations for adjusting the pH, if necessary.

To get started: Dig down 4 inches and scoop up about 1/4 cup of soil from the area(s) you'd like to have tested. Place it in a zippered plastic bag and run a test.

The pH scale runs from 0 to 14. Readings of less than 7 indicate acid (sour) soil; higher than 7, alkaline (or sweet). Optimum pH depends on what you're planting. Pieris (andromeda), gooseberry, hemlock, creeping juniper, magnolia, pinoaks, white pines and potatoes -- in addition to azaleas, rhododendrons and blueberries -- thrive in more acidic soils. But most common garden plants require a neutral pH of around 7.0, or slightly below. So the next step is determining what pH suites your garden. (For a list of pH preferences of different plants, check out the Cornell Cooperative Extension of Nassau County fact sheet on soil acidity).

Once you know your plants' needs and your soil's reading, you can adjust the pH accordingly, if necessary. That's important because if the pH is off, nutrients won't be available to your plants. They might be in the soil, but they'll be locked up.

Most soil on Long Island is naturally acidic because of the amount of rain we get and because of our humid summers, so lowering pH usually isn't warranted.

Raising soil pH can be accomplished by adding calcium and magnesium to the soil. Both elements are present in limestone. Look for dolomitic limestone or dolomite; calcitic limestone is mostly calcium and contains only a very small amount of magnesium.

Liming materials are available in different particle sizes, which determine the speed of absorption. Like anything else, you get what you pay for. Pelletized lime is the Rolls Royce of amendments. It's fast acting and easy to spread but the most expensive of the group. Hydrated lime also is very fast, but caustic. Pulverized lime is fine and dusty and works fairly fast. Granular is slow acting and inexpensive. Your budget, obviously, but also the size of the area you're treating will determine the type of lime you purchase. If you have a small area and can afford it, go for the pelletized lime. If you're working on a acre of land, let your wallet be your guide.

Lowering soil pH is a very slow process and needs to be repeated ad nauseum. It's a never-ending uphill battle, but if you're growing ericaceous plants, you might have to consider it. Frankly, if my soil weren't suitable for acid-loving plants, I'd plant something else rather than mess with this stuff, but there are instances where it might be necessary, like if your plants are suffering from iron chlorosis (indicated by dark green veins on yellowing leaves.)

Elemental sulfur and ammonium sulfate are two elements used to lower soil pH. Ammonium sulfate also adds lots of nitrogen, which will run off and pollute groundwater something awful, but it gives instantaneous results, so people tend to prefer it. Sulfur can take weeks or months to become effective.

Use extreme care when messing with either of these. If they contact leaves, rinse immediately to avoid burns. And whatever you do, don't over-apply them.

We talked about macronutrients and micronutrients, fertilizers and how some freaky things can end up in drinking water.

In all, I'd say my morning was pretty alkaline.

I love free stuff. And when you combine free with plants, I practically foam at the mouth. So when a press release from MillionTreesNYC hit my mailbox earlier this week, my antenna went up.

There are some catches, though. Despite the group's name, there won't actually be a million trees available for "adoption." The group is giving away 1,200 trees on May 10, 17 and 18 at four Council on the Environment of NYC Greenmarkets and at the Riverdale (Bronx) YM-YWHA's Environmental Fair, with 250 trees available at each location. Also, there's a limit of one per household. You won't get to landscape your entire property, but, hey, it's a tree. And free is a beautiful thing. (The group's name actually comes from its goal to plant and care for 1 million new trees across the city’s five boroughs by 2017.)

Limited quantities of the following species of trees will be available on a first-come, first-served basis: Red Bud, Dogwood, Cherry, Crabapple, Service Berry, Linden, Sweetgum, Oak, Tulip Poplar and Buckeye.

If you happen to grab one, you'll be required to register your new tree at www.milliontreesnyc.org. I'm not quite sure why, though I wonder whether the agency will send case workers to monitor the type of home you're providing. (Is there a such thing as Arbor Foster Care for those that are neglected? If so, I personally know of dozens of abused trees in need of rescuing.)

NYRP horticulture specialists will help get you started, with instruction on how to plant properly and then send you on your merry way. If you don't have a yard, as is likely the case for the many apartment dwellers who attend these events, there will be opportunites to get your hands dirty, anyway. Info will be available on volunteer opportunities, educational programs and, of course, contributing to MillionTreesNYC.

Here are the details:

• Saturday, May 10
8 a.m. to 2 p.m.
Borough Hall CENYC Greenmarket – Staten Island, St. Mark’s and Hyatt

• Saturday, May 10
8 a.m. to 2 p.m.
Grand Army Plaza CENYC Greenmarket – Brooklyn Prospect Park NW Entrance

• Sunday, May 17
8 a.m. to 2 p.m.
Inwood CENYC Greenmarket – Upper Manhattan Isham St., Seaman & Cooper

• Saturday, May 17
8 a.m. to 2 p.m.
Sunnyside CENYC Greenmarket – Queens, Skillman between 42nd and 43rd streets

• Sunday, May 18
8 a.m. to 2 p.m.
Riverdale YM-YWHA Environmental Fair – Bronx, 5625 Arlington Ave., at 256th Street

Earlier this week, lawn-care giant Scotts recalled four of its lawn and garden products that contain weed suppressants never approved by the Environmental Protection Agency. They are Miracle Gro Shake 'n Feed with Weed Preventer All Purpose Plant Food, Scotts Bonus S MAX, Scotts Turf Builder MAX and SLS Fertilizer with .28 Halts.

The products were not contaminated. There weren't any bad batches. That might be understandable. But according to the press release, "two of the products have not been registered with EPA and two of the products were registered but are not properly labeled." The company has reportedly blamed the error on a former employee.

Um. Maybe it's me, but wouldn't you think it's safe to assume that in this great country of ours products that require registration would be, well, registered before hitting store shelves? We're not talking about a mom-and-pop operation here. Scotts is a publicly-traded company that pulled in $2.9 billion in net sales last year. Its products are sold pretty much all over the planet. How does one single person have such control in a company like that?

I don't want to get into a debate about Scotts' business practices, but since lots of people use its products in their gardens, the recall makes it necessary to talk about alternatives.

I’m not a big fertilizer person. In fact, I have never, ever fertilized my lawn. I've never quite understood the whole suburban obsession with perfect turf. Mine is nearly half weeds, but when it’s neatly mowed (which is isn’t right now), you’d never know it. Green is green, whether it’s grass or amputated dandelions. For my purposes, it's a lawn.

I try to garden responsibly – just like I try to eat well – but I'm not an extremist in any facet of my life. And while I’ve been known to indulge in the occasional sack of White Castle cheeseburgers, I’d rather my lawn go without weed killers than smother it in chemicals.

I do, however, give my perennials an occasional dose of 5-10-5. I’ve used Miracle-Gro in the past, and in all fairness, I’ve seen good results. A couple of years ago I discovered a product called Worm Poop that worked wonders on my tomatoes. Another "plant food,” Dynamite, which was bestowed with EPA’s Gulf Guardian Award, has served my perennials well.

Regardless of the brand you buy, pick one with a slow-release formula, which is best for the environment with less excess to run off into ground water. They're also better for your plants. And look for one that contains micro nutrients like magnesium, copper, boron, iron and molybdenum in addition to the usual nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium (N-P-K). Dynamite offers both benefits, plus it contains ammoniacal nitrogen instead of the more-common urea, which can contribute to groundwater pollution and is found even in some organic fertilizers.

And what about weeds? Why not try all-natural corn gluten? Applied before weed seeds germinate, it's a good alternative to products containing trifluraline.

If you have any of the recalled Scotts' products, don't use them. Call 888-295-0671 for instructions on getting a refund. Other Scotts products are unaffected by the recall.

Open Days photos

It's that time of year again -- the time when voyers such as myself finally get to see what's lurking in strangers' backyards. Over the next 3 months, private gardens will open to the public for a $5 admission fee, which will benefit the Garden Conservancy, sponsor of the annual flower fest.

I can't say I'd ever volunteer for the tour, not that my garden is tour worthy, anyway. But I love swiping ideas from other gardens and finding a way to implement them at home. What I don't love is when I spot people swiping plants during these tours -- something I've witnessed on more than one occasion. So if you go, ask before sneaking a seed pod or pinching a stem for at-home propagation. It might seem harmless enough, but if everybody did it, the poor homeowner would be left pillaged. Maybe the host will offer to give you something you like at a time that's best for him or her, like when they're dividing at the end of the season. Maybe not, but that's not really why we're going anyway. We're going to get ideas.

Bring a pad and pencil. Grab names of some plants you've never seen before. Sketch a layout for some copycatting at home. Or just enjoy a day outdoors with friends.

Admission is $5, payable in cash or check at each garden. Children under 12 are admitted free. Tickets can be ordered by calling the Garden Conservancy at 888-842-2442 or through opendaysprogram.org.

Here's where the action will be, as reported in today's Newsday.

May 3

Manfred and Roberta Lee, Cutchogue, 10 a.m. to 4 p.m.: Deep perennial gardens surround the property, with azaleas, rhododendrons, roses, hydrangeas and lilacs spread throughout the garden.

Abby Jane Brody, East Hampton, 10 a.m.-4 p.m.: This half-acre, primarily woodland garden features rare or unusual flowering trees and shrubs as well as herbaceous plants.

Margaret Kerr, East Hampton, 10 a.m.-2 p.m.: Plants grown in the Middle Ages surround a courtyard around a fountain and lily pool highlighted with espaliered pear trees.

Richard Kahn and Elaine Peterson, Montauk, 10 a.m.-2 p.m.: The property is protected by the original nonnative plantings of oak, silver maple and privet, with design and materials determined by the challenges of wind and salt spray.

Biercuk/Luckey, Wainscott, 10 a.m.-4 p.m.: The four-season woodland garden under a high oak canopy shelters a collection of rhododendrons, azaleas, mountain laurel, pieris, understory trees, perennials, bulbs and tropicals in season.

Cobb Garden, Amagansett, noon-4 p.m.: Flower beds are filled with tulips, which give way to perennials, with an assortment of annuals as well as countless varieties of daffodils.

May 24

Carol and Jim Large, Locust Valley, 10 a.m.-4 p.m.: Ten acres of mature woodlands, streams, ponds and fields are placed in a framework of rhododendron, mountain laurel and azalea.

Howard Phipps Jr. estate, Old Westbury, 10 a.m.-4 p.m.: Rhododendrons have been bred and raised here since the beginning, and their hybridization continues today, along with a Japanese garden and the site of new rhododendron seedlings.

June 21

Arlene Bujese, East Hampton, 10 a.m.-2 p.m.: Flowering trees include cherry, pear, maple and red leaf plum.

Margaret Kerr, East Hampton, 10 a.m.-2 p.m.: See May 3.

Carol Mercer, East Hampton, 10 a.m.-4 p.m.: Mercer and partner Lisa Verderosa have a garden-design business called the Secret Garden Ltd. Previous years' recognition includes the Gate House Gardens at the 2003 Villa Maria Designer Showhouse in Water Mill and gold medal awards at several of the New York City flower shows.

Alexandra Munroe and Robert Rosenkranz, East Hampton, 11 a.m.-4 p.m.: This young garden around a 1928 beachfront house combines formal and naturalistic landscaping.

July 12

Conni Cross, Cutchogue: 10 a.m.-2 p.m.: This is a 23-year-old garden on approximately five acres, with a shade garden in light, sandy soil and a tufa rock garden featuring dwarf and miniature conifers and alpines.

Manfred and Roberta Lee, Cutchogue, 10 a.m.-4 p.m.: See May 3.

Alice and Charles Leviens, Cutchogue, 10 a.m.-4 p.m.: A two-acre mixed border and woodland garden have been planted to provide year-round privacy, continuous blooms in season and many-faceted views.

Steve and Barbara Friedman, Mattituck, 10 a.m.-4 p.m.: This waterside garden includes a pool garden, a wisteria-draped pergola and a variety of perennials.

Maurice Isaac and Ellen Coster Isaac, Mattituck, 10 a.m.- 4 p.m.: This early 1900s country farmhouse has been designed with two major borders incorporating plantings of unusual combinations of bulbs, perennials, trees, shrubs and annuals.

July 13

Alan Santos, Cutchogue, 10 a.m.-4 p.m.: This garden and pool surround a house that originally was a barn. The pool has brick patios, a pergola and a seating pavilion adjacent to Wickams Farm.

David and Mary Jane Cassaro, East Marion, 10 a.m.-4 p.m.: The gardens include native plantings, mixed borders, a pool, a pergola and a sunken patio, all in a seaside setting.

Koehler's Keep, New Suffolk, 10 a.m.-4 p.m.: Six areas have been developed - a rock garden, a perennial bed, a front house entrance, a driveway island, a bayside bed with grasses and roses and a large bed with shrubs along the driveway.

Lyn and Mark Rickabaugh, New Suffolk, 10 a.m.-4 p.m.: This 1800s house with wraparound porch boasts a swimming pool, pergola, outdoor shower, extensive gardens and stonework designed by Conni Cross.

Mayfield, Southold, 10 a.m.-4 p.m.: A berry garden is just one of the views available from this property adjacent to fields and a vineyard.