Place catalog orders as soon as possible, as the most desirable seeds and plants will sell out quickly. By doing so, you'll also get to take advantage of early-bird offers, like free shipping, bonus gifts and discounts that won't be offered later in the season.
Inspect flower beds for heaving -- bulbs and plant matter that lift out of the ground due to the thaw-freeze cycles. Gently step on the bulbs to push them back into the ground and tamp the soil with your foot. It only takes a minute and can save your bulbs. A nice layer of mulch -- or better yet, compost -- will keep soil temperatures even and reduce further heaving.
Inspect tree wrappings to ensure protection from hungry rodents and other critters.
When the mercury rises to 40 degrees, re-apply anti-desiccant to broadleaf evergreens and rose canes.
Check on stored tubers and bulbs, and mist with water if they appear to be drying out.
Dust off seed-starting supplies and get to work. On Long Island, Income Tax filing day (April 15) coincides with the average last frost day. (I wonder what that means.) Many seeds should be started 12 weeks before the last frost is expected; others a mere 2 to 4. Peppers, eggplant and lettuce should be started indoors 8 - 12 weeks before the last frost (around the beginning to the middle of February); tomatoes, cucumbers and Swiss chard, 6 to 8 weeks (mid-February until the beginning of March); cabbage and broccoli, 4 to 6 weeks (early to mid March); squash, melon and pumpkins, 2 to 4 weeks (around St. Patrick's Day or a little later.) Check seed packets or catalogs for more recommended start times.
If you use salt to keep your walkways free of ice, don't dump shoveled snow on your lawn or on garden beds. De-icers made from calcium chloride are safer to use than sodium chloride-based ones. For more information on salt damage, visit the Cornell Cooperative Extension's Lawn Care Library.
Avoid walking on frozen lawns. Frosted plants are extremely vulnerable to damage.
