Talk of the Tents

By Joseph V. Amodio

Headed back to Chelsea's club 1Oak last night for the after party of savvy young designer Brian Reyes, as I heard it might be a real scene. Make that scene…and seen. The DJ was howling: "Let's hear it for my boy Brian" and so-n-so's "in da howwwzzzzze,"…and…wait…that voice…turned out to be none other than Wyclef Jean himself, in a rare moment of spinning tunes. Also there to catch the vibe: the lovely Rachel Bilson (only spotted, alas, from afar), Niia (an up-and-comer who performed), and Reyes himself, natch.

Even Che stopped by--Benicio del Toro, that is--who showed up later in the evening. (Or so I heard. Can't BELIEVE I didn't spot him. Probably bumped right into him and thought, "Just some big dude with a beard.")

The place was jammed, and jammin’, everybody shoulder-to-shoulder and rockin’ back and forth. They’d taken down all those pink boas that were hanging from the ceiling for the Valentine’s Day La Perla party (a wise move).

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Barbara Schuler

It’s hard to know why any actress wanting to make a statement on the red carpet would look farther than Ralph Lauren.

The collection he presented Friday to cheers and a standing ovation was all about true glamour, with gowns both subtle (a rose print platinum lame and lavish; a luciously beaded gown in champagne silk). He mixed things up a bit, showing a comfy-looking sweater over a silk charmeuse beaded gown and a great gray cashmere coat over a shimmering silver number.

And you had to love his nod to hobo chick - a patchwork coat done in wool and cashmere. Watching it all, 60 Minutes correspondent Morley Safer, with Anna Wintour at his side explaining it all to him. Can’t wait to see what that was all about.

>> Photos: Ralph Lauren Fall 2009 collection

P.S. We'd like to thank Ralph for delivering Blake Lively to the front row of his show. Crazy hot.

(AP Photo)

By Joseph V. Amodio

A quintet of pianists along the runway played while models passed alongside, looking like the debutante class of 1910.

The outfits boasted nipped-waist jackets, puffy-sleeved blouses and long skirts with dramatic trains. There are must-haves: the “backgammon” print mink coat, the Gibson Girl looks in mod fabrics (like the silver jacquard jacket, chainmail blouse and metallic trouser), or the crochet nightshade dress, which looked like it was made of a delicate spider’s web.

The question remains -- is this wardrobe too costumey or will it strike an ultra-feminine chord with consumers? They have several months to decide.

>> Photos: Zac Posen Fall 2009 collection

By Anne Bratskeir

Rebecca Taylor’s girls like the pretty stuff but need a little edge to keep on track.

And that’s exactly what she delivered in her sharply edited collection on Thursday at the tents.

Included in the mix, a comfy mohair and metallic “cuddle me” coat, a tough, leather motorcycle jacket sweetened up by a few ruffles and the color...ballet pink. On the same note, several other pieces – a coat, a cashmere sweater -- got their muscle from shiny studs.

There were a few floral dresses that were Taylor signatures, and some bold pops of silky magenta. Her slouch pants were welcome in a season that seems to hold painted on pants in high esteem, though her grayed leopard leggings – eh, not so happy to see them.

Of particular note in a good way, a stringy cobweb vest over a champagne sparkle skirt, really swell.

Front row troika included Jamie-Lynn Sigler (looking smashing by the way), Mena Suvari and Tori Spelling, who, eek, were wearing the same lacey white Taylor top. Heavens to ‘Becca.

>> Photos: Rebecca Taylor Fall 2009 collection
>> Photos: Jamie-Lynn Sigler, Tori Spelling and other celebs at Fashion Week

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(AFP/Getty Images)

By Anne Bratskeir

If you're looking forward to a suspenseful season 6 of Project Runway…whenever and wherever it finally airs…please don't read this.

The show has been mired in contract disputes between Bravo and Lifetime for months, so while production has continued, no one has seen an episode or has any sense of the players and their personalities. Which brings us to the finale show at the tents Friday morning.

Heidi Klum and company were all on hand. Heidi, who spoke briefly, said she felt "a little bit sad for our designers," for not getting any recognition. To keep the finalists secret, the collections came out like headless horsemen, no inspirational information, no designer intro. Who will the winner will be? Kind of obvious, though we could be wrong...but we sincerely doubt it.

Here we go:

Out of the three, the best was by far, the third shown, which began with a stitched leather corset-sweater over leggings and featured fabulous outerwear, many with strips of fabric encasing the waist or stitched over the back. The knitwear – cushy sweaters, one cocoon-like hooded job in creamy camel, another slouchy sweater coat – absolutely fabulous.

For evening the crisscross effect was taken to another level – black dresses and a gown wrapped in strips featured sparkly fabric insets. Overall, an obvious wow with a touch of rocker luxe.

Even Season 4 winner Christian Siriano, who sat front row, looked impressed. Now all we need to know is whodunit? And in the interest of not being mean (yet), we'll only say that the first two collections, which both had some good pieces, were underwhelming.

Maybe this is too much information for Project Runway lovers but Suzy Menkes, the famed fashion editor of the International Herald Tribune, is the guest judge for the finale. And we're thinking based on other show attendants, that Marc Bouwer will be a guest judge on the show, as will hip-hop singer-songwriter Akon. C'mon Project Runway, bring it on.

>> Photos: "Project Runway" finale at Fashion Week

How do the Season 6 final designs compare?

>> Season 5 finale
>> Season 4 finale

See more in our Project Runway blog.

We're sitting here in the "Project Runway" Season 6 finale show for a season that exists somewhere inside an office and outside our visual cortex.

Of course, we haven't seen the show so who knows what any of this means. However, we are happy to report that Suzy Menkes is the guest judge. Will we ever get to see and hear her thoughts on the clothes. Smarter legal minds than myself haven't figured that out yet.

Also spotted in the crowd were a bunch of "Project Runway" alums including former champs Jay McCarroll, Leanne Marshall and Christian Siriano, Season 5's Jerrell Scott, Suede and Korto Momolu and Season 4's Chris March.

>> Photos: "Project Runway" finale at Fashion Week

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By Anne Bratskeir

Season four Project Runway winner Christian Siriano, the diminutive designer with the huge personality, has arrived. He presented last season, but didn’t seem nearly as ready as he did on Thursday night when he packed the house at the tents for a showing that was darn good, and fun to boot.

Though he’s never been there -- and wants to go -- Siriano was inspired by things Egyptian . . . pyramids and colors.

To that end, the sophisticated palette included shades of sand, mocha and teal and turquoise, like the Nile. The fit on his silky dresses and slim skirts -- body conscious, some intricately seamed -- was just plain killer. The skirts balanced well with floaty ruffled tops or silky blouses with broad shoulders (talk about on trend).

In fact, these may win the award for the biggest shoulders of the week, and with the exception of one that featured pyramid-triangles down the arm (kind of dinosaur-esque) they were good.

Project Runway judge Nina Garcia, who sat front row, beaming, lusted for a tiered, zippered coat over a bodice dress. “I would buy that and wear that right now,” she told us. She was pleased with his work. “I feel like a proud mother.”

Natch, there were some of Siriano’s signature exuberant ruffles but even these had more finesse than the last time around. A finale dress of shiny pebbled gold with a swanky train clung to every curve of the model and was amped up even further by a huge quirky “crown” by milliner Heather Huey, that Siriano told us was meant to bring to mind a pharaoh. The crowd went wild for it.

The clothes look good on real people, too. Fascinista (as in, we don’t know why but people are fascinated by her and she goes to fashion shows) Tori Spelling, attended the show wearing one of Siriano’s one-shoulder turquoise dresses with style.

Siriano’s also got a funky new line of shoes for Payless -- two ankle booties, three hidden platform pumps with names like “SheDevil “and “Slither. “ We predict they will sell like crazy.

Overall, and we’re sorry to fall into the trap, but the collection was, forgive us, “fierce.”

>> Photos: Christian Siriano Fall 2009 collection

By Anne Bratskeir

If fashion is a reflection of world affairs, then Calvin Klein designer Francisco Costa is feeling puzzled – as in a series of very striking black coats and dresses featuring jigsaw puzzle-shaped fabric pieces or flaps giving garments a dark, graphic quality.

He's feeling protective too, with boldly shaped coats, also black, many with molded dropped shoulders. The thickness of these reminded of padded athlete's uniforms. Lighter and airier, but still black, many pieces with plisse, a frothy pleating, that moved sensually when models walked and stunning laser cut silk dresses flash a little flesh but remain undisputedly elegant.

But, hold on.

The sun comes out in Costa's world with two glossy velvet yellow dresses, both gorgeous, and a laser cut silk single shoulder dress in juniper green may (and maybe we're stretching it a bit) symbolize renewal. Ponderous notions aside…it was beautiful.

>> Photos: Calvin Klein Women's Fall 2009 collection

By Anne Bratskeir

Can one fashion show set the world right? No, but Isaac Mizrahi's joy-filled romp at the library (called, appropriately, "Smile") sure felt great.

Walking to original live piano music, some of Mizrahi's models wore slippers (what a relief from the killer shoes we've seen all week) and, perhaps reflecting the topsy turvy nature of the world, others donned upside down pocketbooks on their heads…hilarious.

The show opened with "blankies," warm swingy coats, some in bright colors, one in chocolaty suede lined with mink. A satin "butterscotch lozenge" coatdress was smooth, sweet and superb. There were kooky plaids galore, some gorgeous velvet burn-out dresses, tinsel style shrugs, cozy and colorful checkerboard knit sweaters, cushy coats (one called the "Extra Happy Peacoat") and a bottle green frock named "Stressless Dress."

Along with all the quirkiness and homespun hand there were plenty of bombshell dresses: a drop-dead shimmery rose gold number, the cobalt-and-icy crystal "Jackpot" strapless job and a killer gold alligator patterned slither.

Dear Isaac, we would have written a formal thank you note for your optimism and your feel good gift to the fashion world but it didn't fit our format. So, thank for making our day.

>> Photos: Isaac Mizrahi Fall 2009 collection
(AP Photo)

The assembled couture-ati this week have been encouraged to recycle their used bottles, cans, glass, aluminum, plastic and cardboard in more than 25 soda bottle-shaped recycling bins placed around Bryant Park.

Coca-Cola Recycling worked with New York recycler Boro Recycling Inc. to help clean up after Fashion Week’s more than 100,000 attendees, who have tossed aside an estimated 11,000 pounds of recyclables. That’s more than the weight of 100 supermodels stacked one on top of the other.

- ROBERT KAHN

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By Barbara Schuler

Catherine Malandrino must not have received the cutting-back memo.

Her show at the Rainbow Room - and called “Over the Rainbow” - was preceded by a swell breakfast spread and champagne. The clothes bubbled, too, with lovely draping and frothy frocks that really did belong on a dance floor.

This is a special occasion collection if ever there was one, from short little knit dresses perfect for clubbing, to more sophisticated cocktail dresses in satin and jersey.

And for anyone who has a wedding on the calendar next fall, you’d do well to check out the nude and gray V-neck tulle confection.

By Julie Gordon and Jessie Pascoe

Ivanka Trump was all smiles at Brian Reyes Thursday morning after the recent birth of her brother's second child, Donald Trump III.

"I was over at the hospital first thing at like 5:30 [Wednesday] morning," she beamed.

So what's the newest, and youngest, Donald Trump like?

"He couldn't be sweeter. He's a very, very handsome young boy. And healthy most importantly," she said.

The baby was born a little after midnight on Wednesday.

>> Photos: Brian Reyes Fall 2009 Collection

By Anne Bratskeir

Handsome cardigan-and-khaki-wearing Tommy men greeted the fashion flock with trays of espresso pre-show, foreshadowing the good-life clothes that would appear on Tommy Hilfiger's runway at his Thursday morning show at the tents.

Dedicated to Fifth Avenue, "the iconic thoroughfare where luxury meets sensibility," according to program notes, styling did not go to uncharted waters, but sail away, these are the clothes you will wear and wear.

A sand-suede zipped coatdress, fit to a tee, was smart and chic, a good white poplin blouse and khaki cotton canvas narrow trousers – a crisp weekend look for the country club or the city.

A terrific navy cashmere knife pleat sweater featured a graceful, sexy open back, and a black leather trench coat with white shearling lining topped a black cotton corset dress – powerful and swanky.

The collection was not limited to basics (though there were good vintage jeans). A slim candy-pink silk satin dress, was, well, eye candy, while a black jersey flutter-sleeve gathered-bodice dress could become a wardrobe staple.

The stone silk jersey backless gown – va-va-voom! Though heaven knows how you'll keep the girls in check. The pale pink lame halter dress was, for sure, an entrance maker.

>> Photos: Tommy Hilfiger Fall 2009 Collection.

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By Joseph V. Amodio

Yes, you may think all is glitter-glorious in and among the tents and off-site venues of Fashion Week. But there are those who snap you out of all the fabulousness and bring you back to hard, gritty reality.

Three cases in point:

1) At Marchesa—the garmento-type broad with the recently done highlights and large handbag that she plopped down on one of the cubes that a model was standing on, so she could rifle through her mess and pull out something vital. What? A compact? A business card? These cubes are not wide -- room for one nutrient-deprived woman, that's about it. And there I was, noticing the bulging veins on the feet of the poor model, standing in these impossibly high shoes, the pain noticeable in her eyes, and this woman comes along, jabbering with a friend and, oh, wait a sec’, I think I have it right here—and she slings the bag down on the cube, practically on top of the poor model’s aching feet.

Do you plop your bag down—"Wait, I think I have a pen in here"—on somebody else’s table at a restaurant? Or thrust your carry-on—"Hold this, wouldja?"—in the cockpit of a plane? Or throw your luggage up on the stage—"’Scuse me, I just need to see if I packed my favorite socks"—when Patti LuPone is singing in "Gypsy?" (You better believe if you try that with Ms. L, mama's gonna stop the show, walk over and slap you. Hard. AND take your favorite socks.)

Bonnie & Clyde photo from FBI.gov

2) At Doo.Ri—the woman who stole my shampoo and conditioner. At least I think it was shampoo and conditioner. It was a gift bag from Marchesa, that they handed me as I was leaving. I wasn’t even sure what it was at the time, as I was trying to zip up my coat and pull out my umbrella to brace myself for the freezing rain. I hoofed it down a few blocks to the Doo.Ri show on the Far West Side, put my own messenger back and the gift bag down at my seat, and stepped across the aisle to chat with a colleague. I heard an odd…thud…and turned to see a large older woman with two humongo shopping bags—we’re talking each one bigger than my grandmother’s mobile home in Amityville (hey, we’re jus’ folks, here)—leaning over my seat, and then making a hasty retreat. My actual bag—which is more important—was untouched. But whatever they handed me at Marchesa—gone.

Now it's not a huge deal. I donate that stuff to local groups anyway. But...still.

At the end of the show, I found myself next to the woman as we exited. I wanted to tell her off. I wanted to rifle through her bag. But as I looked at her—past her prime, eyes still trolling the seats for neglected items, all I could feel was…pity. Really? This is how you spend your golden years? "Enjoy the shampoo," was all I could muster. And I left.

3) At Richie Rich—or, more specifically, in line at Cain, on West 27th Street, for his after-party. "OK, we have a problem," says the chick who's working some retro look and speaking into her cell phone. "Yeah, I can’t believe it, I mean, this is, like, MY place. I mean, Cain is my place where we hang out, and there seems to be some sort of…event…going on." The crowd was larger than usual, apparently, and, oh, heavens, what to do, where to go? We could go to Bungalow, but, no, that wasn’t quite right. Or we could go to…but no… "I know, I know, but just meet us here anyway. If we change our plans, I’ll let you know. My publicist is calling around to some other places…."

Really? Your publicist? You're not exactly Amanda Lepore (Richie's buxom muse). Babe, if you were THAT fabulous, you wouldn’t be waiting in line…. (Truth be told, this last woman didn’t really tick me off. She more amused me, actually. And, who knows, maybe she’s talented. Maybe she actually DOES something. But if you’re gonna be ticked off at people, it oughta be in threes. Two doesn’t quite cut it. Four’s just whiny. Three is a pattern that legitimizes your rant.)

Note to self: Hire publicist.

(Getty Images Photo)

By Joseph V. Amodio

Richie Rich, a bleached-blond, roller-skating designer who once co-helmed the wonderfully wacky Heatherette line, created buzz like Hedda Hopper and extravaganzas in place of fashion shows.

Clothing? That is, clothes you could actually wear—other than to a rave? Well…not so much.

Which was always the morning-after letdown.

No more.

His debut (and solo) line was unveiled Wednesday at a fashion SHOW (complete with torch singer, badass violinist, topless male ballet dancers and sorta sexy / sorta scary Amanda Lepore) at the grand ballroom of the Waldorf-Astoria Hotel.

And - get this - it's full of wearable dresses and separates. Like the dresses and jumpsuits in a multicolor $$$ print with lipstick smooches; a one-shouldered number with Lichtensteiny motif; or a water-colored denim jacket. And a collaboration with Vans promises fun high-tops.

Granted, any dudes willing to don the green tiger-stripe bathing trunks or those with gold coins strewn over — hello! — well, more power to you.

(AP Photo)

By Joseph V. Amodio

Anna Sui always comes up with fun prints, like her black-and-white "Proustian butterflies," ultramarine medallions or heliotrope striped rosebuds.

But it’s her experiments in sunlight shades that felt especially fresh and eye-catching for fall.

Like the golden paisley and quatre foil floral metallic skirt (with dangley bits hanging off the hem), the ruffly saffron-striped rosebud dress (with black leggings and boots), a tweed jacket (with coppery feathers fluttering off shoulders) and a chocolate velveteen jacket (with iridescent striped taffeta skirt).

We say, "Uh, no," to just one—a frumpy black blouse and bustle skirt that’s way too Mary Todd Lincoln…post-theater. (Though, granted, it was just Presidents Day.)

>> Photos: Anna Sui Fall 2009 collection

By Joseph V. Amodio

This brand’s reliable execution of artful draping and pleats is hard to miss. There are the wool blazers with sheer jersey-draped sleeves, and with a bottom half like a torn-off sheaf of supple leather. Literally—the bottom hem was ripped and unfinished. A cashmere shrug topped a "cascade skirt," with fabric gathered in little tubes, like trickling rivulets of jersey. But we fear we must "just say no" to the fur-sleeved vest (how can a "vest" have sleeves, anyway?) and cropped fur jacket (hey, Cousin Itt). And those tights, dappled with crystals up the leg—dazzling but, honestly, how’s a woman supposed to sit back and cross her legs?

By Joseph V. Amodio

Don’t go shopping with this dude if you’re hungry. "Honey drizzled delights." "Truffles and pralines tied with silky ribbons." "Frosted spirals of whipped meringue." This is how he describes pieces in his collection and—Uncle! Uncle!!—they're as delectable as the words suggest.

Several sheaths are encased in delicate tulle netting—like spun sugar, trimmed with a ruffle and drizzled with scads of long flapper pearls. A blue one-shoulder gown with black draped overlay creates long vertical folds that elongate the body and do right by any and all curves. Or, for flash, there’s the I-don’t-need-an-Oscar-when-I-can-BE-an-Oscar, square-necked, gold-lame cocktail dress with swirled stitches. Yes, Carmen, we’d like to thank the Academy, and all the little people who made this dress possible….

>> Photos: Carmen Marc Valvo Fall 2009 collection

(Photo by Jori Klein)

(Getty Images)

By Joseph V. Amodio

If you plan to take up residence in a fairy taile world anytime soon — or maybe you’re just going to the Oscars — these are the dresses for you.

Dress…gown…words don’t really do justice to these fabric sculptures, from the simple nude suede pieces with delicate hand-embroidered flowers and vines, to the gowns encased in bubbles of tulle, to the Hollywood glam, lilac chiffon strapless (anybody got Anne Hathaway on speed-dial?).

Most jaw-dropping: a "shooting stars" tulle concoction, in which star shapes literally spring out from an organza and lace gown—glamour in 3-D.

Yet one complaint must be raised: The shoes are too dang high. Some models, standing still on cubes, are practically in tears. It's distracting. Hey—four-inch spikes are just as sexy as five-inchers. This ain't Abu Ghraib, after all....

>> Photos: Marchesa Fall 2009 collection

Ice-T and his curvaceous wife, Coco, enjoyed the complimentary manicures, hairstyling and spa services at the Waldorf-Astoria's Fashion Week suite on Wednesday night. The "Law & Order: Special Victims Unit" star graciously put down one of those frilly finger sandwiches to talk about his personal style, all the fun of Fashion Week and whether he'd consider launching his own line of clothing. First a rapper, then actor and now designer? This guy can do anything!

(Getty Images Photo)

>> Photos: Ice-T and Coco through the years and celebrities in the front row at New York Fashion Week.

By Anne Bratskeir

Nanette Lepore’s muse, “the modern heroine,” is armed for battle – if that battle means parties, and dates and fun – with pretty paisley and scarf print dresses, some with asymmetrical hems, many lined (and here’s the armor part) in gold or bolstered with gold paillettes, so when you swirl on the dance floor or walk in the sun, the light will catch you.

Outerwear included cozy sweaters, a tweed jacket in plaid featuring a nipped waist and peplum --cute and fresh –and a more serious black twill coat with czarina overtones.

Vibrant colors - violet, rose – add to the playful vibe.

>> Photos: Nanette Lepore Fall 2009 collection

(AFP / Getty Images)

By Anne Bratskeir

Live rock music at the back of the runway, androgynous models in Beatles’ wigs, many a look named for a legend (yup, a Hendrix coat) and, by way of explanation, a quote from rocker Bryan Ferry, “This brave new world’s not like yesterday; it can take you higher than the Milky Way.”

Lim’s brave new world is a study of old and new –flirty floral burnout dresses with beaded yokes worn with gauntlet gloves, a Sergeant Pepper coat with a big antique silver beaded placket over a grey mélange zebra burnout tunic.

A black chiffon mushroom print gown with gathered front and open back (named for Stevie Nicks) …dreamy, but toughed up, with metallic driving gloves. It seemed a bit too grim, we get it, times are tough, and the dark styling buried many terrific items though a few long-haired goat pieces in onyx and amber – well, kind of creepy.

Add to this the obvious agony of the models in the crippling Christian Louboutin for 3.1 Phillip Lim shoes (several had to take them off and walk in stockings)…distracting.

>> Photos: 3.1 Phillip Lim Fall 2009 collection

(AP Photo)

By Anne Bratskeir

Bold colors and modern shapes were the name of the game at Gilles Mendel's early morning show at the tents. The designer, who is known for his furs and his ethereal evening looks, went in a new direction… futuristic.

And he added much more to wear by day. Lean looks – sort of rich tough girl -- included skinny pants, cropped jackets, some fitted, others crafted of leather strips, sexy body-conscious dresses, boleros and vests – ritzy but not formal. As for fur, less, and somewhat subtle. Two looks were reversible (how economical!) – one side pin-tucked satin, the other natural white mink. Stunning abstract brooches and chunky necklaces added arty flair.

For the night, party clothes in hot colors--electric purple, cobalt and violet--again sleek, some with clever draping and intricate backs. A purple one-shoulder silk chiffon gown with cascading ruffles and black ribbon swirls prompted "Lipstick Jungle" star Kim Raver to check her calendar. "I was thinking what I have coming up. I would go to the Oscars just to wear that dress."

Who wouldn't?

Photos: J.Mendel Fall 2009 collection

By Anne Bratskeir

In a Park Avenue space, formerly a church, Oscar de la Renta's models, in sky-high gold and black stilettos and boots and beehive hairdos, showed off the master's handiwork. His point of view: stay true to the brand.

Hence, most of the looks conjured his famous and ladylike clientele – top socialites and VIPs .

The collection was best in the daywear department – cozy sweaters, luscious in oatmeal cashmere, slim skirts, some in leather (one olive - ooooh!), easy trousers and skinny pants and a double-duty, perfect unadorned black wool dress.

And economy be damned, Oscar's customers want their furs, and he obliged in a casual way with a scarf and mittens of skunk, several iterations of feathered sable, and our favorite, a black velvet mink and swakara vest worn with swagger atop sleek pants.

There was the roar of leopard – graphic shiny belts, quilted jackets and a one-shouldered siren's gown.

Eveningwear was, in part, well, big. A Valentine-red strapless number featured an enormous bow, a soft pink satin halter was backed by a serious bustle (emphasis on bus) and a fuchsia satin one-shoulder job included a massive drape appendage.

The finale dress – a vast black and white floral print strapless with layers of petticoats virtually spilled off the runway.

But, hey, Oscar de la Renta, of all people, is allowed to live large.

>> Photos: Oscar De La Renta Fall 2009 collection

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By Julie Gordon and Jessie Pascoe

Mischa Barton has Anglo-dar. “Brtish people tend to be quite eccentric and risk-taking in the way they piece things together,” she dished about how she picks out a Brit on the street.

Her take on that aesthetic? “I quite like that,” she told us from the front row at G-Star. So much that her handbag line is only available overseas. “I didn’t want to work with a huge American corporation,” said Barton, who was born in London and spends a considerable amount in time in Europe. “I wanted to do something that would express my own personal sense of style.”

But if Barneys came calling, she just might change her mind. “If it grows and it gets picked up by other outlets, or whatever, that’s great,” she confessed.

(Photo: Getty)

Parker, second from left, with Jada Pinkett Smith, Dakota Fanning and Will Smith during the 40th NAACP Image Awards in Los Angeles. (AP Photo)

By Robert Kahn

Actor Nate Parker lived every boy’s dream last weekend when George Lucas had him out to the Skywalker Ranch to talk about a new movie.

“I got to hold Han Solo’s Lightsaber,” Parker said last night at the Hammerstein Ballroom, where luxury denim brand G-Star Raw presented its fall/winter 2009 collections.

Parker (“The Secret Life of Bees”) will star in Lucas’ coming “Red Tails,” about the Tuskegee Airmen, the all-black band of World War II pilots. He’ll play an alcoholic squadron leader when the project goes behind cameras in Prague later this year.

Parker “took a lot of pictures” during his visit last weekend to the 4,700-acre Marin County estate. He also got to hold a gun used by the character Buck Rogers in one of that character’s many screen incarnations.

“George gave us complete access to everything,” Parker said.

Ah, so where does Mr. Lucas keep the spare key?

“Right under the big arch that says ‘Skywalker Ranch.’”

Front row guests at G-Star Raw – which included an appearance by the company’s new “icon,” Benicio del Toro – were Mischa Barton, Rufus Wainwright, Natasha Bedingfield, Tyson Beckford and “Gossip Girl” actress Amanda Setton, a Great Neck native.

>> Photos: G Star Fall 2009 collection

What with the lousy economy, and fewer numbers of editors, reporters and buyers being able to travel to Fashion Week this season, Temperley London designer Alice Temperley decided to bag the whole notion of a runway show. So she cleared out all the gear in her SoHo shop and replaced it with pieces from her upcoming line—offering a presentation of her "Empress of the Orient" collection yesterday and today. She also produced a cool video, which began running yesterday on her website and on large screens in the shop—and we’ve got it here for you to check out, too.

"You’ve got to show how the clothes move and flow," says Temperley. "This way the collection can go out to five million people rather than just the few who’d come to a runway show."

It also gives her more time to hang with her new baby, Fox--who is quite possibly the cheeriest, jiggliest kid in New York at the moment. Publicist gals were all googly eyed over him, to his delight. (Baby fashion alert--The young bloke, born just days after Temperley's last runway show, was man enough to try some daring pattern mixing of stripes and polka dots.)

But back to Temperley's collection. Touted as her most varied line to date, the Asian-inspired clothes come in rich shades of bordeaux, red currant, ochre and cobalt, and a variety of fabrics—lace organza, beaded fringe, origami-style pleated wools, crepes, goatskin and sinfully soft napa leather. Letting your hands drift across the pieces hanging on the racks feels almost illicit—a little like playing touchy-feely.

Our faves: A dress with a bodice covered in delicate flower petals, so abloom that it looks like the wearer is just popping up out of a garden. A leather jacket (in bad-ass black or sophisticated luggage brown) is dappled with cubic metal studs, and has a surprise window in back, cinched with a belt. But perhaps the most graphic—the most spotted-you-across-a-crowded-floor type pieces—are the dresses and jackets awash in a black, white and bordeaux cherry blossom print.

Horace Greeley—an old newspaper dude—once said, "Go West, young man." (Or so the legend goes.) Temperley’s nodding her head in the opposite direction. You’d be wise to follow her lead.

(Getty Images)

By Anne Bratskeir

Michael Kors has a welcome and cheery take on next season.

Bring back the classics – those tried and true silhouettes-- but pare 'em down to their sexy essence and amp them up with attention to details and uproarious flashes of neon.

A black, lean leather sheath – a second skin really – is deceptively sizzling. A seemingly demure camel "scissor" skirt is seductively slit thigh high. A herringbone cashmere suit in smoke features cutouts at the collarbone leaving only the collar and a provocative flash of skin. Origami-like pinched jacket shoulders and quirky folded collars on smart cashmere coats showcase the face.

Then there was the simplicity and audacity of the classic melton coat (cashgora) – in neon pink, over a matching cashmere tunic and black stretch pants…easy, breezy and totally knockout.

And speaking of audacity, some might say Kors has chutzpah to show over-the-top neon shredded fox coats and vests in this economy. We say hooray for the joy and the optimism.

>> Photos: Michael Kors Fall 2009 collection

The coutari-ati don't normally rise this early, but elegant women's designer Carmen Marc Valvo broke with tradition this morning to ring the opening bell downtown at NASDAQ headquarters. Valvo shows his Fall '09 collection later today at Citrine Lounge in Chelsea.
- Robert Kahn

Talley haute. American Express cardmembers who purchased seating watch the action from a sleek skybox (designed this year by Jonathan Adler). But tonight they come down from the rafters and into the tents as Vogue editor André Leon Talley hosts a special runway show for AmEx featuring Diane von Furstenberg’s spring and fall collections.

(From left, Zoe Saldana, Giorgio Armani, Solange Knowles / AP Photo)

By Barbara Schuler

Imagine a department store...only everything in it is by Giorgio Armani. That's what Giorgio Armani did. Then he built it.

And now it's open, following a jam-packed bash last night that that almost shut down Fifth Avenue and 56th Street, what with invited guests trying to get in past throngs of curious onlookers and a bigger-than-usual bunch of PETA protestors in their bunny suits.

It all started upstairs in the restaurant where Mr. Armani was joined by Caroline Kennedy and Mayor Michael Bloomberg to announce that in honor of his new store he was donating $1 million to the city for an arts program in the schools.

Then the entourage worked its way down the spiral staircase (more about that later) for the official ribbon cutting, which most of us who'd been upstairs didn't see because by then the store was in absolute gridlock (Armani should only hope the place is ever again half as crowded).

Finally the party was in full swing though the cute guys with the food trays seemed to give up early on and were nowhere to be found. (Presumably those invited to the exclusive after-dinner got something to eat.)

Continue reading "Giorgio Armani on Fifth Avenue" »

(AP Photo)

By Joseph V. Amodio

This collection, according to program notes, explores the "seduction of the dark side," which sounds ominous, aggressive even. Nothing could be further from the case.

Layers of soft fabrics, many of which were draped lower in back, like a train, emphasized femininity and grace. In one combination, a black lace bodysuit was worn underneath a crepe one-shoulder dress that’s swagged in back. In another, a knit bodysuit is topped by gray jersey gown, with leather turnlock belt and pulled to one side and worn asymmetrically.

Shoulders were pleated to form especially pointy shapes and suede leggings were adorned with zippers. What should have been daywear—layers of bodysuits, tees, jumpers—felt ethereal and right for evening, thanks to luxe fabrics like lace, silk, chiffon, crepe and velvet.

>> Photos: Max Azria Fall 2009 collection

By Joseph V. Amodio

Days after Sen. Kirsten Gillibrand revealed she keeps two rifles under her bed, Rodriguez unveiled his collection of what might be called "survivalist chic."

There are equal parts strategy and sex appeal in his clingy, camouflage dresses, coats and pants, worn with oversize thimble hats that cover the head, with two slits for eyes, like helmets in a knight’s suit of armor.

Wide ammo belts (at least that’s what they looked like) wrapped round a gabardine dress or twill coat, and his final dresses featured shiny plastic-looking armored bodices atop embroidered silk.

No one reveals slivers of skin like he does. A viscose knit dress with criss-crossed bands offers a peek of cleavage; another, with slashed back, looks pierced by a rapier’s sword—those in shades of "highlighter yellow" or "highlighter pink." If he’s trying to take over the world, he’ll have the most stylish army ever.

>> Photos: Narciso Rodriguez Fall 2009 collection

(AP Photo)

(AP Photo)

By Joseph V. Amodio

Kimora Lee Siimmons has never been one to downplay glitz, so while many shows are pared down this season, Simmons offered up a collection "synonymous with a lifestyle of extravagance…," according to her program notes.

The line rocked a 1940s vibe, with herringbone jackets worn atop ruffly blouses and scads of long pearls.

A few evening gowns scored hits, like the pretty burgundy-print halter with white sash round the waist. And what looks like bleach-spattered denim (for women and men) also appealed.

But she should nix that white quilted coat with the desperate "Notice me! Notice me!" gold bits on back and an odd, stiff fit.

>> Photos: Baby Phat Fall 2009 collection

By Anne Bratskeir

We spend a whole lot of Fashion Week wallowing in the sorrows of never being able to afford the luxurious duds of top designers, and for next season, with the dimmest of economic forecasts, well, bargains have never looked so good.

Which is exactly why the Sears/K-Mart suites set up in the Bryant Park Hotel were so refreshing, timely, and, surprise, surprise, featured some more than decent merchandise.

Contemporary lines for Sears included an adorable ruffled jacket – so on trend – cute trenches, floaty tops, most under $40 (yeah, we said $40).

Don't miss the shoes, studded flats, saucy pumps all by private labe apostrophe, and well-styled pocketbooks that could have fooled us (as in we thought they were pricey) for under $30.

For back-to-school, there are well-priced jeans in every imaginable style including brands such as Lee, Levi's and new-to-Sears, Jordache (remember?).

Moving on to K-Mart, cheaper still, a tweedy suit by Jacqueline Smith is a distant but not bad Chanel pretender, and the former Charlie's Angel translates her animal instincts with a cheetah printed cardigan.

Cool young women may like the faux leather bomber – well-styled and lined with leopard by Piper & Blue, or the funkified pea coat by Route 66. Moms, go here for every imaginable graphic tee shirt from butterflies to zebra prints.

And let's not forget the Protégé sneakers by Al Harrington, the New York Knick. He actually wears 'em on the court and they sell for $34.99. What a score.

(Newsday / J. Conrad Williams Jr.)

By Anne Bratskeir

Um, is the term hobo chic an oxymoron?

Rumpled guys (some in tux-like ensembles complete with corsage), and messy, sexy girls with unruly mops of hair and bizarro netting over their faces stalked the runway of Diesel creative director, Wilber Das.

He was going for the modern day torch song singer – hence the very excellent jazz quartet that played live at the back of the stage – and you could vibe out the nightclub, the smoke and the lifestyle.

The gals wore lingerie in odd ways – over jeans, layered with more structured pieces, though a black sparkling chemise was positively fab all by itself. Other frocks, some sequin trimmed, had the feel of just being pulled from an old trunk.

But there was an intentional dark side – worn boyfriend jeans with leather suspenders hanging down below the hip, patched leggings and other battered looks that were shocking for their lack of finish and still quite cool. Like we said, hobo chic.

>> Photos: Diesel Black Gold Fall 2009 collection

(Getty Images)

(AP Photo)

By Joseph V. Amodio

In a tough retail market, Lam somehow makes the notion of dressing seem so easy. His runway show offered a series of relaxed, elegant looks (like the Berber intarsia sweater and knit skirt) that’ll take you from office to cocktails or a secret networking lunch.

There’s nothing radical here—except for the fur (a coyote stole, a puffy white fox coat). But there’s sex appeal in a mauve draped jersey dress gathered on sides, or the loose georgette halter (very 1970s Faye Dunaway). Most intriguing: a crepe and felt layered tunic worn with an olive sequin wrap skirt, a slit revealing leg as you walk.

>> Photos: Derek Lam Fall 2009 collection

By Joseph V. Amodio

The economy implodes. Society disintegrates. Buildings crumble. We eke out a meager existence amidst the ruins. Daunting, yes—but what to wear? The Rodarte gals—sisters Kate and Laura Mulleavy—answer with a line of patchwork mini dresses of luxe fabric scraps. Lace, netting, leather, Lurex, all loosely top-stitched and swaddling the body.

A cropped leather jacket is reinforced with umpteen buckled snakeskin straps. A linebacker sweater vest with gobs of wool offsets cellophane sleeves. Gloves sprout sprigs of fluff and boots are strapped round and round, up, up, up to the thigh. (Pity the poor model whose strap came undone and tripped...and tripped...and tripped as it swung round her leg like a maypole.)

Eager to share their thought process, the Mulleavys offered an inspirational lookbook in addition to the program. They included aerial photos of city streets, the lines of pavement, painted lane dividers, curbs and sidewalk stones looking, well, much like a patchwork of textures and shades. Other photos revealed a parched desert landscape of scrub brush, and a desolate warehouse or the underside of an overpass, all desolate with debris and scattered drifts of snow. In one image, a young masked boy stands proudly wearing wings. Icarus, perhaps, who flew too high and paid the price.

The dresses were of a type—"Mad Max" chic—but the color palette slowly changed from grays and bisque to hits of azure, aqua, then full-on green. Signs of a rebirth? In these dresses, you’ll look sexy either way. Where you'll wear them BEFORE civilization plunges off the abyss, we're not so sure. But if you're one of their young, edgy customers who still has some cash burning a hole in your pocket, we're confident you'll think of something, surely....

>> Photos: Rodarte Fall 2009 collection

By Anne Bratskeir

Happy, happy, joy, joy, Brit designer Matthew Williamson did his own beautiful, upbeat thing revving up the lust factor big time.

Little silvery foil dresses with modern softy colored prints were easy wearing yet simultaneously show stopping. In fact, prints ruled his runway – all very original – some quiltish (but, oh boy, not a bit Amish) smashing on jersey.

A dress of graphic black and white zig zags trimmed in a folksy floral and a touch of rhinestones was pure delight.

And let’s not forget the girlish ruffles – one kooky “spirograph” frock featured a sci-fi mound of them about the shoulders, though the best of these –a multi-colored full length confection – undulated wildly as the model walked – a feast for the eyes.

Williamson went heavy on luxe – lots of fur (in colors like teal) and embellishment – turquoise, coral, beading, silver – but rather than formal, it was all very groovy – just like his clients who include Sienna Miller.

>> Photos: Matthew Williamson Fall 2009 collection

(AFP / Getty Images)

By Anne Bratskeir

Breaks are a rarity during Fashion Week, but we had a few minutes so, out of mild curiosity we visited the DS Spa at the top of the Bryant Park Hotel.

OK, Nintendo DSi (you know the little handheld game console that Carrie Underwood, America Ferrara and Liv Tyler play around with on TV ads?) was not at the top of our hit parade, but man, that little thing is a blast. And besides games, it does tons of things like taking photos, adding graphics (like flowers in your hair or stars coming out of your mouth) and so much more.

For the gamer fashionista in you, there are custom blinged up jobs. If that weren’t enough, Sephora was doing their beauty thing . . . blow outs, manicures and makeup (we did not partake).

Owl’s Lab, the mega-hip, super funky store at 20 East 12th St. (between University & Fifth) was strutting their unique merchandise . . . kooky, handmade feathered hair bands that Gossip Girls love, cool sweatshirts, one of a kind umbrellas with gorgeous art scenes underneath…oh, what? Oops. We had to pull ourselves away to get back to the shows.

(AFP / Getty Images)

By Anne Bratskeir

Hey starlets and fancy ladies, if you’re looking for old-school Badgley Mischka with boatloads of bling . . . go elsewhere.

If it’s a little restraint you want, you’ve come to the right place.

A draped basic black number, below the knee, in silk/wool georgette with a sexy cowl will be forever elegant. Nubby boucle coats and jackets work with anything, and a black cashmere sweater featured satin cuffs.

Fear not.

There were plenty of big event dresses to be sure – eek, a few somewhat mumsy (think Barbara Bush, the grandma) – but the loveliest featured fly-away ruffles, and a lavender one shouldered number was poetry.

The boys did not totally forsake the jewels -- two TV-ready jobs were sequined and the finale dress was a stunner, bronze, beaded tulle with an ethereal chiffon overlay.

>> Photos: Badgley Mischka Fall 2009 collection

By Anne Bratskeir

“Tough and Sweet. Rock and Roll Chic.”

This was designer Shaun Kearney’s concept for the Cynthia Steffe collection, which had its high points. Kearney served up supple leather pieces with ruffles on the side - cat woman sexy as a dress, office worthy as separates.

Cozy and cute, a deep crimson crushed velvet frock with leather trim and exposed back zipper, a sculptural gold boucle coat, - sophisticated - and Kearney can be proud as a peacock over his graphic peacock print turned out on chiffon blouses, dresses and a gown.

Unfortunately, there were some lows…slouch cropped pants in leather, smacked of MC Hammer (a baggy crotch -- not a good thing), and some fringe numbers conjured haystacks.

>> Photos: Cynthia Steffe Fall 2009 collection

Kellie Pickler at Badgley Mischka, left, and Tracy Reese (Getty)

By Julie Gordon

Just like Misshapes' Leigh Lezark attended show after show after show last season, former "American Idol" contestant Kellie Pickler is storming the front row this go around.

So, why, oh why, did she attend Badgley Mischka, Tracy Reese, Farah Angsana, Lela Rose, Barbie, Georges Chakra AND BCBG? (Excuse us if we're forgetting anything). Well, she's promoting a laundry list of projects.

"I just released my new single to Country Radio, "Best Days of Your Life." Taylor Swift and I wrote it together. We're getting ready to go on tour together. We kick that off in April. I just signed with Big Sexy Hair as their new face. The new ads come out in April," she told us at (where else?) the Tents.

With all that going on, she hasn't had time to watch the new season of "American Idol," though she did offer some advice for contestants: "Just pick songs that complement your voice and you love — and have fun." If only it were that easy.

-Click here to see all of Kellie Pickler's Fashion Week outfits

By Robert Kahn

Conan O’Brien isn’t the only New York TV guy making a break for the West Coast this spring. Seven-year “TRL” host Damien Fahey is also headed to L.A., with longtime girlfriend Grasie Mercedes.

“It’s like a mass migration of men with freckles,” Fahey said from the front row at William Rast in Bryant Park, which wrapped with a spirited runway stroll by the four creative directors, Justin Timberlake among them.

Fahey will be doing the old “taking meetings” thing, but does seem to have one gig lined up: he expects to be doing interviews for “Extra,” the syndicated entertainment program.